| She was a writer. She was cute, she was
single and she was Scottish. In my books, that
was plenty of incentive to march down to the
nearest travel agency and purchase a ticket to
visit the home of Loch Ness, Mary Queen of Scots
and the best whisky in the world. If the
Proclaimers could walk 500 miles and 500 more to
be next to a woman, then surely I could pull off
flying a few thousand!
Before embarking across the Atlantic, I
decided that I should do some research to prepare
myself for the trip. Like all good Canadians,
that meant watching So I Married an Axe
Murderer and Braveheart until I had
all the dialogue and fake accents memorized.
I walked onto a plane bound for Scotland on
September 3rd. I had three weeks and a
plan. I was going to visit this girl, Loch Ness,
and as many castles as possible.
The trip got off to an ominous start. Exactly
seven feet out of the Glasgow International
Airport I had an abrupt brush with death.
Apparently they drive on the other side of the
road in Scotland, but no one thought to tell me
to look the other way when crossing
the street. Luckily, as I found out in due time,
it only takes about three weeks to get used to
this, and most tourists from North America do
survive the transition.
For the first few days, I stayed with my aunt
in a small town called Bathgate, halfway between
Glasgow and Edinburgh, Scotlands two
largest cities. I had decided I would visit the
girl right away and then move on to more exotic
locations, like Laid, a so-called town of four
people in the north of Scotland. Yes, thats
right, four.
My plans got waylaid almost immediately. I
made the mistake of visiting Edinburgh on the
second day of my trip and got sucked into one of
the most vibrant cities Ive ever seen.
While most people think Edinburgh Castle and
14,000 other historic buildings are the
citys prime attractions, my personal
favourites were the incredible art galleries. I
distinctly recall thinking how boring art was
when I was a teenager, but now that Im the
ripe old age of 31, seeing the work of renowned
artists such as Monet, da Vinci and Dali in
person seemed like a big thrill.
Edinburgh is Scotlands
"international" city, and it
didnt disappoint. I stayed in a hostel 100
yards from the Royal Mile (a brick road that
leads from the royal palace to the castle), and
spent most of my first week meeting people from
around the world. On my first Friday night there,
a group of us discovered that during the week
before university starts, bars in Edinburgh give
away alcohol to attract the new students. For six
foreigners on travel budgets, it was the
motherload of motherloads! We bar-hopped through
eight different pubs and finished off one of
lifes finer evenings in a five floor dance
club that played songs I had never heard of
before. Did I mention the booze was free?
In between my ramblings in Edinburgh, I spent
a day in Glasgow and went out for lunch with the
woman I had come to visit. I would love to tell
you how we fell madly for each other and lived
happily ever after, but she had to get back to
work by two and I had a few museums to visit.
Glasgow is a much more industrialized city
than Edinburgh and far less attractive. But
its home to the Burrell Collection, a
number of unrelated artifacts collected by an
eccentric guy, Burrell, in the mid-1800s. To my
surprise, I actually went to this museum and
found myself gazing in admiration at
5000-year-old bowls, Egyptian sculptures, and
swords that were used to behead kings.
After being way too artsy for my own good in
the big cities, I started my second week in
Scotland on a train heading north to the town of
Aviemore, the countrys very own version of
a cheesy resort town. Replete with a ski hill
that boasts more than 400 metres of vertical and
snow from December to February, Aviemore would be
my base for an exploration of Scotlands
famous Castle Trail.
Of course, to explore Castle Trail, where the
castles are up to 50 kilometres apart, I had to
rent a car. Fortunately, other than the first
half-hour when I nearly imprinted my hands into
the steering wheel and had my first curb
incident, the driving was actually pretty
enjoyable and easy.
My Castle Trail excursion began with Balvenie
Castle, an ancient fortress dating to the 13th
century that now lies in ruins near the northeast
coast of Scotland. I arrived at 10 in the morning
on a miserable rainy day and was surprised to see
that I was the only person there. Note to self
for future reference: do not visit old ruined
castles alone on miserable rainy days. I was in
there for less than five minutes exploring the
tunnels and rooms when I got the distinct feeling
that I was no longer alone. Rather than try to
figure out who or what was with me, I decided I
was hungry and should continue up the coast.
The highlight of the next week was my visit to
the Royal Burgh (pronounced burra) of
Banff in the county of Banffshire, the town and
county that our Banff was named after. It was
amazingly similar to our town it too had a
cannon, a castle, an ancient cathedral and a
royal historic house, though theirs is called the
Duff House, not the Park Admin. Building.
Located on the coast next to the Moray Firth
and the North Sea, Banff is an historic
international trading port best known for its
fishing and as the home of Robin Hood of the
Highlands. The tale of James Macpherson, or James
of the Hills, and the broken fiddle is a
well-known one throughout Banffshire the
leader of a band of outlaws, James played a
"rant" on his fiddle the day he was to
die in the town square. He broke all the strings
in his fury and an hour later became the last man
to be hanged in Banff, on Friday, November 16th,
1700!
From the northeast coast, I retraced my steps
south into the land of William Wallace to revisit
the story of one of Scotlands greatest
heroes and the centrepiece for the movie Braveheart.
I spent a day in Stirling and visited the William
Wallace Monument and the awe-inspiring Stirling
Castle, perched high above the city on a pinnacle
of rock.
By the time I reached Stirling, I knew where
my next destination lay. For two and a half weeks
I had been avoiding the one place I had most
looked forward to visiting. So on September 20th,
at 11 pm, I got up from my hostel bed and drove
off into the night, intent on finally seeing for
myself what the legend of Nessie was all about.
I spent that night in my rental car on the
side of the road at the start of the legendary
Loch Ness, a 40-kilometre long lake with a murky
bottom and a famous ghostlike inhabitant. At
daybreak I was driving along slowly, staring
incessantly at the choppy waters, believing that
I would actually see something. It was as
ridiculous as it sounds, but I dare you to drive
the length of this lake without doing the same
thing!
From Loch Ness, I embarked on a 2000-kilometre
loop along the extreme northwest coast of
Scotland, visiting the famous West Highlands,
described in my Lonely Planet guidebook as
"one of the last great wildernesses in
Europe." I was pretty skeptical of this
declaration, but by the time I was done I had
seen sights that were more staggeringly beautiful
than I ever imagined could exist in Great
Britain.
The highlight of my entire trip came on one of
my last days there. My mother grew up in
Scotland, and I grew up listening to her stories
of a place she visited every weekend when she was
in her 20s. She described it to me countless
times as a magical stretch of hills in the West
Highlands, where she said a person could walk for
miles and miles and miles through the purple
heather and across the barren moors. As a kid, I
pretended not to listen and had assured myself
that this magical place was probably anything
but.
I had completely forgotten about my
mothers tales of Glen Coe until I drove
into the valley on my way back to the airport in
Glasgow. Known as one of the premier walking
destinations in the world, Glen Coe draws
hundreds of thousands of visitors a year now, a
far cry from the days when my mother wandered the
empty hills alone or with her university friends.
Still, it was clear the magic continued to
linger in the air in these hills. The sunlight
bounced through the clouds to the heather-covered
hills below, turning the landscape into a
glittering maze of purple and gold. It was bleak
and desolate, even unforgiving, yet beautiful.
If life really does run full circle, then my
visit to Glen Coe and Scotland was the final
piece linking my mothers life to mine. I
went to Scotland in search of a crazy notion of
love, chasing a girl thousands of miles across a
continent and an ocean. I left Scotland at the
end of September feeling like I found something
even more valuable, something I didnt even
know I was searching for a thread running
from a thistle to a maple leaf, from a mother to
a son.
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